If you plan to leave your RV parked through the winter, winterizing is not optional—it is essential. Water left in plumbing can freeze and burst pipes, the water pump, and the water heater, a more common problem than many owners realize, with repairs that can be costly. Here is a step-by-step look at when and how to prepare.
When Should You Start Winterizing?
In general, it is time to begin winterizing once nighttime temperatures consistently fall into the low 40s°F. It is safest to finish before the first frost, while temperatures are still in the upper 30s°F to low 40s°F. Once temperatures dip below 32°F, water remaining in the plumbing can freeze and damage pipes and fittings. The greatest risk is putting it off assuming it will be fine, only to be caught by a sudden cold snap.
Water Heater Bypass: The First Step
Before adding antifreeze, be sure to switch the water heater bypass valves. Most RVs have a three-valve bypass system behind the water heater. Setting those valves to bypass keeps antifreeze from entering the water heater tank. Skipping this step means filling a 6- to 10-gallon water heater tank with antifreeze, resulting in considerable waste.
Protecting Plumbing With Antifreeze
There are two main winterizing methods: using compressed air or RV-specific antifreeze. For beginners, the antifreeze method is much simpler. Use only non-toxic antifreeze made for RVs; automotive antifreeze is toxic and must never be used in potable-water plumbing. Typically, 4 to 6 gallons are needed. First, open the low-point drain caps and open every faucet, including the exterior shower faucet if equipped, to completely drain the plumbing. Open the fresh-water tank drain valve as well and empty the tank completely. Then connect an antifreeze pump kit and pump until pink antifreeze runs from every faucet. Pour about a cup into each drain, P-trap, and the toilet. Leave some antifreeze in the toilet to maintain the seal that helps prevent odors from backing up.
Winter Battery Storage: Freezing Can Ruin Them
The ideal battery storage environment is dry, well ventilated, and between 40°F and 70°F. A lead-acid battery left partially charged can suffer internal damage if its electrolyte freezes, so it should be charged to 100% before storage. Lithium batteries, however, can have a shorter lifespan if stored long-term at a full 100% charge, so they are best stored at 40% to 60% charge. When possible, the safest option is to remove batteries from the vehicle and store them indoors in a temperature-stable space, such as a basement or insulated storage room. Connecting a smart battery maintainer is also convenient, as it automatically maintains the charge without overcharging.
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